Power Supply Sizing Calculator for a Ham Radio Station
The short answer
A 100 watt HF transceiver draws about 22 amps at 13.8 volts on transmit, so it needs a 30 amp supply once sensible headroom is added. Add the peak transmit current of the radio to the continuous draw of every accessory, then add about 25 percent. Voltage sag from undersized DC wiring causes more station faults than undersized supplies do.
- 100 W HF
- About 22 A
- 50 W mobile
- About 11 A
- Headroom
- Add 25 percent
- Nominal voltage
- 13.8 V
Power supply sizing is arithmetic with one trap in it. The radio's transmit current is the number everyone looks up, and the number that actually causes faults is the voltage arriving at the radio under load, which depends as much on the cable between them as on the supply itself. Get both right and the station never surprises you.
Calculator
Station current and supply rating
Currents are typical figures at 13.8 volts for equipment in each class. Check your own radio manual, which will state the transmit current directly.
Supply rating needed
Peak station draw
Idle draw
DC wire gauge
Voltage drop at peak
Mains input at peak
A 30 amp supply covers this station with room for a tuner and accessories.
Why 13.8 volts and not 12
Amateur equipment is designed around the voltage a running vehicle's electrical system actually produces, which is roughly 13.8 volts rather than the 12 volts a battery holds at rest. Every current figure quoted in a radio manual assumes that supply voltage, and every specification for transmit power assumes it too.
Radios typically tolerate about 13.8 volts plus or minus 15 percent, so roughly 11.7 to 15.9 volts. Below the bottom of that window they fold back power, produce distorted audio or reset entirely. Above the top they risk damage. That tolerance band is why sag matters: a radio that sees 11.5 volts on a transmit peak is outside its design window even though the supply is reading 13.8 with no load.
The current your station actually draws
| Equipment | Receive | Transmit |
|---|---|---|
| Handheld charging in its cradle | 0.1 A | 0.5 A |
| 25 W dual-band mobile | 0.8 A | 6 A |
| 50 W dual-band mobile | 1 A | 11 A |
| 85 W single-band mobile | 1 A | 16 A |
| 10 W portable HF (Xiegu X6100 class) | 0.6 A | 3 A |
| 20 W HF (Xiegu G90 class) | 0.9 A | 6 A |
| 100 W HF (FT-891 or IC-7300 class) | 1 A | 22 A |
| 600 W solid state HF amplifier | 1 A | 90 A |
| Automatic antenna tuner, tuning | 0.02 A | 1 A |
| Rotator controller | 0.3 A | 0.3 A |
| Station accessories, keyer, lamp, fan | 1 A | 1 A |
Two things about that table. First, transmit current is peak rather than average, and a supply must handle the peak even though the average is far lower. Second, a 600 watt amplifier at 90 amps is a different class of problem entirely and normally comes with its own supply or runs from a dedicated one; do not try to run an amplifier and a transceiver from a single 30 amp supply.
Sizing rules that avoid every common fault
- Add the radio's transmit current to the continuous draw of everything else. Only add a second radio's transmit current if the two can key simultaneously, which in a single-operator station they usually cannot.
- Add 25 percent. A supply run continuously at its rating gets hot, ages faster and has no margin for the accessory you add next year. The difference in price between a 25 and a 30 amp supply is small.
- Check whether the rating is continuous or intermittent. Cheap supplies advertise a peak figure and deliver considerably less continuously. A supply sold as "30 amp surge, 25 amp continuous" is a 25 amp supply.
- Size the wire for voltage drop, not for heating. A gauge that will not melt can still drop enough voltage to fold back the radio.
- Fuse both conductors at the supply and at the radio. The positive conductor always, and the negative too if there is any chance of an alternative ground path, which in a shack full of coax braid there always is.
- Distribute through a fused block. A Powerwerx PD-5F fused distribution block$50.85 gives five individually fused outputs, so one accessory fault does not drop the whole station mid-contact.
Voltage drop, the fault that looks like a broken radio
A radio that resets on voice peaks, produces reports of distorted or clipped audio, or quietly delivers 60 watts when it should deliver 100, is nearly always suffering from voltage sag rather than a fault. The diagnosis takes one minute: put a voltmeter on the DC connector at the radio, key up into a dummy load at full power, and read it under load.
| Gauge | At 10 A | At 20 A | At 25 A | Verdict at 25 A |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 AWG | 0.80 V | 1.61 V | 2.01 V | Far too thin. The radio will fold back. |
| 14 AWG | 0.50 V | 1.01 V | 1.26 V | Too thin for a 100 W radio. |
| 12 AWG | 0.32 V | 0.63 V | 0.79 V | Borderline. Acceptable on a short run. |
| 10 AWG | 0.20 V | 0.40 V | 0.50 V | The right answer for a 100 W station. |
| 8 AWG | 0.13 V | 0.25 V | 0.31 V | Generous. Use it for runs over ten feet. |
Aim to keep the total drop under about 0.5 volts at peak transmit. Note that the figures above are for the round trip, since current flows out along one conductor and back along the other, and using only the one-way length is the most common arithmetic error people make here. The full ampacity table by gauge is on the wire gauge reference.
Which supply to buy
For a 100 watt station, a 30 amp switching supply is the standard answer. A Powerwerx SS-30DV desktop power supply$164.17 arrives with Powerpole outputs already fitted, which saves an evening of crimping and means every DC connection in the station can use the same housing. A TekPower TP30SWII 30 A switching power supply$129.99 is a cheaper 30 amp switcher with analog meters and, more usefully, a noise-offset control that shifts the switching hash away from whatever frequency you are listening on.
For a station where receive noise is the priority, a linear supply such as the Astron RS-35M-AP linear power supply$551.00 is heavy, expensive and completely silent on the bands. That is the whole argument and it is a real one for a weak-signal or low-band operator. For everyone else a good switcher is the better buy, and the tradeoffs are laid out on linear versus switching power supply.
Standardise the connectors while you are at it. A pack of 30 A quick-disconnect power connectors, 40-piece$9.99 genderless 30 amp housings means a borrowed battery runs your radio and your radio runs from a borrowed supply without an adapter, which is the entire reason the amateur community converged on them. Full field on power supplies compared.
Switching supply noise, and what to do about it
A switching supply chops its input at tens to hundreds of kilohertz, and the harmonics of that switching frequency can land squarely in an amateur band as a strong birdie or a raised noise floor. It is not a fault; it is inherent to the topology, and quality of design determines how much escapes.
- Try the noise-offset control if the supply has one. Moving the switching frequency a few kilohertz often moves the birdie out of the segment you use.
- Choke the DC leads. Several turns of the DC cable through a FT-240-31 ferrite toroid core$11.67 at the supply end stops common-mode noise travelling down the wiring into the radio.
- Bond the supply chassis to the station ground bar with Tinned copper ground strap braid, 15 ft$22.99, using the same single-point ground as everything else rather than creating a second path.
- Move it away from the antenna feedline entry. A foot of separation between the supply and the coax entry panel is free and sometimes sufficient.
- Confirm it is the supply before rewiring anything. Run the station from a battery for five minutes. If the noise disappears, you have your culprit; if it does not, the problem is elsewhere and the noise hunting guide is the next stop.
Running from a battery instead
A deep-cycle battery kept on a float charger is the quietest power supply available and it keeps the station on the air when the mains fails, which is a genuine argument for anyone who got licensed for emergency preparedness. The tradeoffs are weight, the cost of a charger that suits the chemistry, and the fact that a battery must be fused at the battery itself rather than only at the radio.
For sizing, the same peak current figures apply but the question becomes how long it lasts rather than whether it can deliver, which is the battery runtime calculator. For safe handling, charging profiles and the cold weather rule that ruins lithium packs, read portable power and battery safety.
Common questions
Questions people ask about this
What size power supply do I need for a 100 watt HF radio?
Thirty amps at 13.8 volts. A 100 watt HF transceiver draws about 22 amps at full output on a voice peak, and the standard advice is to add roughly 25 percent headroom so the supply is not running at its limit continuously. A 25 amp supply will work and will run hot; a 30 amp supply runs cool and leaves room for a tuner and accessories on the same feed.
Is a 20 amp supply enough for a 50 watt mobile radio in the shack?
Yes, comfortably. A 50 watt dual-band mobile draws about 11 amps on transmit and 1 amp on receive, so a 20 amp supply has nearly double the headroom it needs. The mistake is going the other way: running a 100 watt HF radio from a 20 amp supply produces voltage sag on transmit peaks, which shows up as distorted audio reports and unexplained power foldback.
Should I buy a linear or a switching power supply?
A switching supply for almost everyone: lighter, cheaper, more efficient and available with Powerpole outputs. The argument for a linear supply is radio frequency noise, since a switching supply generates hash that can land on a band you use. Good modern switchers are quiet and several have a noise-offset control that shifts the switching frequency away from where you are listening.
Why does my radio reset on transmit peaks?
Almost always voltage sag rather than a fault in the radio. Either the supply cannot deliver the peak current, or the DC wiring between the supply and the radio is too thin or too long, so voltage drops under load until the radio browns out. Measure the voltage at the radio while transmitting, not at the supply. A supply reading 13.8 while the radio sees 11.5 is a wiring problem.
What wire gauge do I need between the supply and the radio?
For a 100 watt HF radio at 25 amps over a run under six feet, 10 AWG. Over ten feet, 8 AWG. The figure that matters is voltage drop rather than heating: losing half a volt in the cable is enough to make a radio fold back its output, and the drop is proportional to both current and length. Use the same gauge for both conductors and keep the run as short as the desk allows.
Can one power supply run the whole station?
Yes, if you add the currents correctly and fuse each branch individually. Add the peak transmit draw of the radio to the continuous draw of every accessory, then add headroom. Feed it through a fused distribution block rather than daisy-chaining, so one accessory fault trips one fuse instead of dropping the entire station mid-contact.
Keep going
Related on this site
- Battery runtime calculator The portable equivalent of this calculation.
- Linear versus switching Noise, weight, cost and what actually matters.
- Power supplies compared What to buy at 25, 30 and 50 amps.
- The $2,017 first HF station Where the 30 amp supply sits in a full build.
- Finding noise in the shack When the supply turns out to be the culprit.
- Wire gauge reference Ampacity and voltage drop by gauge and length.
Keeping your own cut lengths, SWR sweeps and exposure record? The Station Build & Antenna Planner is the paid version of these pages: 8 printable worksheets you fill in with your own numbers, plus the full PDF, $29.
Disclaimer Researched guidance for planning purposes, not professional engineering, electrical or legal advice. Antenna work, RF exposure, mast and tower work, grounding and battery handling all carry real risk that depends on your specific site and installation. Verify anything safety-critical against current FCC rules, the National Electrical Code and the manufacturer's own documentation, and hire a professional where the job calls for one. We research equipment from published specifications, regulatory documents and verified owner reviews rather than claiming hands-on testing we have not done.